Coronado Hotel
&
California Surreal Opulence as
Real
James
R. Fisher, Jr., Ph.D.
©
June 28, 2015
CALIFORNIA DREAMING AS A
MINDSET
You
only have to be in California for a day or two before subliminally feeling you
have consciously left the world of the real for the surreal. California is deeply in depth daily facing bankruptcy
but living as if it has won the lottery with funny money. Optimism here in the face of that reality is
not a mindset but a religion.
This
was apparent to me as we left the desert of Hemet, California and drove south
to San Diego, California. The Interstate
Highways System is in pristine condition, the eight to ten lanes filled
constantly with brand sparklingly new automobiles in the mint of condition
carrying the most illustrious brand names of the automotive industry.
To enhance this image the shoulders of the
roads rise around these byways with well-kept vegetation (trees, shrubs, sculptured
walls and other appointed landmarks) to give the impression of abundance and
solvency.
Once
you enter San Diego, and travel through the downtown, through the ethnic
neighborhoods of Hispanics, Italians, and other ethnic groups, which are larger
than the same more celebrated neighborhoods in Chicago of which I am
more familiar, and might I add cleaner and better maintained.
This
Lego Land mystique is so striking as to
put one in mind of a gigantic Lego Land Exhibition and not a real city at all, but
a cluster of neighborhoods to mock reality.
We
took a two and one half hour trolley cruise through the city and noted the veneer
of cleanliness, neatness and orderliness of its surface causing one to wonder
what was hidden. I’ve traveled the world
and always found the character of a place revealed by its underbelly. We saw no such evidence in this trolley ride.
The
surreal was further enhanced when we took a 2.1 mile ride over an expansion
bridge 200 feet above San Diego Bay, which connected with Coronado Island and the
home of the internationally known as the Hotel del Coronado.
The San Diego–Coronado Bridge is a pre-stressed
concrete and steel girder bridge over San Diego Bay connecting San Diego with
Coronado Island, which is not actually an island but a peninsula as part of
State Route 75.
Beautiful
Betty (BB) was apprehensive about driving across this bridge and did so without
looking down. I, on the other hand, had
a marvelous view of the bay, the luxury boats and yachts and magnificent ships
of the United States Navy below, as well as the abbreviated skyline of the
City of San Diego.
I say “abbreviate”
because no building in San Diego can be taller than 500 feet as the San Diego
International Airport is smack in the middle of downtown.
Compounding
my irascibility, this airport besides being in the wrong place has only one
runway with planes landing and taking off every ninety seconds. Not to worry, the rational has little to do
with dialectics.
For example, there are
plans for building a $1.7 billion football stadium in Carson outside San Diego to
be jointly shared between the San Diego Charges and the Oakland Raiders of the
National Football League. It is to be
built on the privately financed sale of hundreds of millions of dollars of preferred seat
licenses.
Little note is made that Raiders and Chargers are infrequently playoff bound.
Everyone
back in Florida told us that the Hotel del Coronado was “a must see.” It did not disappoint.
It is magnificent, appealing to the eye, overwhelming of the senses, and intimidating to one of limited means.
I thought the baroque architecture and lavish colors of St. Petersburg, Russia were a bit over the top, but in a different style and architecture to be sure, the Hotel del Coronado competes in that same league of gaudy excess.
It is magnificent, appealing to the eye, overwhelming of the senses, and intimidating to one of limited means.
I thought the baroque architecture and lavish colors of St. Petersburg, Russia were a bit over the top, but in a different style and architecture to be sure, the Hotel del Coronado competes in that same league of gaudy excess.
Surf
google for this hotel and you will see what I mean in the lavish pictures
presented there.
It
cost $24 for two hour parking, and if you lost your ticket it was $58.
What we didn’t know, but found out by having a coffee (me) and clam chowder (Betty) is that the waitress could electronically stamp our parking ticket and we were given three hours of “free parking.”
The coffee and clam chowder cost $34. The coffee, which cost $6 was not as good as McDonald’s, but who cares when it comes to "quality."
What we didn’t know, but found out by having a coffee (me) and clam chowder (Betty) is that the waitress could electronically stamp our parking ticket and we were given three hours of “free parking.”
The coffee and clam chowder cost $34. The coffee, which cost $6 was not as good as McDonald’s, but who cares when it comes to "quality."
The hotel has shops and boutiques that we wandered through as well as beautiful gardens,
and the most impressive beach we have ever seen with its white sand
expanding for several miles beyond our vision.
I thought the
beaches of Clearwater, Florida’s white sand were the best, but the city fathers of that city opted to put in huge parking lots with meters that has ruined that previously breathtaking setting.
Wandering
through the shops I saw a windbreaker I liked on sale for half price. I gave it a look. Its marked
down price was $200 and looked a lot like a windbreaker I saw at Penny’s
back home for $16.95, full price. Of
course the Penny's windbreaker didn’t have the Hotel del Coronado imprimatur.
The
Hotel del Coronado is a beachfront luxury hotel in the city of Coronado, just
across the San Diego Bay from San Diego, California.
It is one of the few
surviving examples of an American architectural genre: the wooden Victorian
beach resort.
It is the second largest wooden structure in the United States (after the Tillamook Air Museum in Tillamook, Oregon and the Belleview Biltmore in Belleair, Florida) and was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1977 and a California Historical Landmark in 1970.
It is the second largest wooden structure in the United States (after the Tillamook Air Museum in Tillamook, Oregon and the Belleview Biltmore in Belleair, Florida) and was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1977 and a California Historical Landmark in 1970.
When
it opened in 1888, it was the largest resort hotel in the world. It has hosted
presidents, royalty, and celebrities through the years. The hotel has been
featured in numerous movies and books.
The
hotel received a Four Diamond rating from the American Automobile Association
and was once listed by USA Today as one of the top ten resorts in the world,
though it has since been removed from that list. In the mid-1880s, the San Diego region was in
the midst of one of its first real estate booms.
At
that time, it was common for a developer to build a grand hotel as a draw for
what would otherwise be a barren landscape. The Hollywood Hotel in Hollywood,
California, the Raymond Hotel in Pasadena, the Hotel Del Monte in Monterey, and
the Hotel Redondo in Redondo Beach, California, were similar grand hotels built
as development enticements during this era.
HISTORY OF THE HOTEL
DEL CORONADO
On
December 19, 1880, three people went together to buy all of Coronado and North
Island for $110,000. Those people were E. S. Babcock, retired railroad
executive from Evansville, Indiana, Hampton L. Story, of the Story and Clark
Piano Company of Chicago, and Jacob Gruendike, president of the First National
Bank of San Diego.
A
24-page prospectus with the title Coronado Beach. San Diego, California,
asserted that "The Coronado Beach Company has been organized with a
capital of One Million Dollars ...."
The officers were Babcock, Story, and
Gruendike. Also involved with the company, at this early stage, were three men
from Indiana: railroad baron Josephus Collett of Terre Haute, lumber merchant
Heber Ingle of Patoka, and John Igleheart, a miller, who later became famous
through the development of Swansdown flour.
The
men hired architect James W. Reid, a native of New Brunswick, Canada, who first
practiced in Evansville and Terre Haute. His younger brother Merritt Reid, a
partner in Reid Brothers, the Evansville firm, stayed in Indiana, but brother
Watson Reid helped supervise the 2,000 laborers needed.
E.
S. Babcock envisioned the hotel “would be built around a court...a garden of
tropical trees, shrubs and flowers. From
the south end, the foyer should open to Glorietta Bay with verandas for rest
and promenade.
"On the ocean corner, there should be a pavilion tower, and
northward along the ocean, a colonnade, terraced in grass to the beach. The
dining wing should project at an angle from the southeast corner of the court
and be almost detached, to give full value to the view of the ocean, bay and
city."
That vision was turned into
reality, Southern California style.
Construction
of the hotel began in March 1887, "on a sand pit populated by jack rabbits
and coyotes."
We
heard a lot about jack rabbits in the trolley ride. These vermin were apparently so plentiful
that they literally ate away all the indigenous trees and shrubs to the point
that hardier and less dietary pleasing vegetation could be imported and planted.
If
the hotel were ever to be built, one of numerous problems to overcome was the
absence of lumber and labor in the San Diego area.
The lumber problem was
solved with contracts for exclusive rights to all raw lumber production of the
Dolbeer & Carson Lumber Company of Eureka, California, which was one of the
West's largest. Planing mills were built on site to finish raw lumber shipped
directly from the Dolbeer & Carson lumber yards, located on the shores of
Humboldt Bay.
To obtain brick and
concrete, Reid built his own kilns. He also constructed a metal shop and iron
works.
CONTRAST THIS WITH THE
DEMISE OF BELLEVIEW BILTMORE
The Belleview Biltmore, Belleair, FL
As
we learned about the vision of these early entrepreneurs and the difficulties
they had to overcome, I could not help but think of the fate of our equally
famous Belleview Biltmore Hotel in Belleair, Florida.
While
many Belleair, Florida residences were sleeping, a big vote came down that allowed
a developer to demolish nearly all of the historic Belleview Biltmore Hotel.
About
90 percent of the hotel is in the process of being torn down, and the plan for
the 10 percent that remains is ambitious.
Planners
say the oldest part of the Belleview Biltmore is actually in the best shape. So
the developer is promising to move that whole section of the hotel about 250
yards to the east, and turn it into a boutique inn.
The
vote came down after a six-hour commission meeting inside Belleair Town Hall. Some neighbors argued with all their hearts to
save the hotel from the 1890s. Those passionate people saw an important link to
Tampa Bay's past vanishing if what was once called the "White Queen of the
Gulf" were torn down.
But
town commissioners also heard from dispassionate experts, who said the
structure was too far gone. They testified that repairing the hotel would cost
more than $150 million, but the resulting building would be worth just $50
million in today's market.
We're
hearing from the man in the middle of the difficult decision, which ends the
debate over the hotel's future.
"My
mother, the last time she was here alive 14 years ago, I took her by and she
said, 'You know, you were two years old and I walked you through here in a
stroller'."
Belleair Mayor Gary Katica said. "You know, we all have those memories. But, you know what? Life is a series of adjustments."
Belleair Mayor Gary Katica said. "You know, we all have those memories. But, you know what? Life is a series of adjustments."
Katica
told his audience that he loved the old hotel, but it was falling apart and costing the town a
fortune in maintenance.
"We
listened to the people of Belleair, and that's what they want," Katica
said. "It's time. When you're costing a town $600,000 to $800,000 a year
for six or seven years, that's a lot of money. We start our budget with a
minus. Not good!"
A
developer from St. Petersburg, Florida, Mike Cheezem, is now in the process of buying the property
for just under $7 million from its current owners.
His
company, JMC Communities, says it plans to break ground this summer on new
houses and condos. Belleair citizens are hoping to learn more about the timetable for
tearing down the majority of the hotel, one of the icons of Old Florida that was, unfortunately, taken for granted as being indestructible.
THE CONTRAST, WHY
INCLUDED HERE
Those
responsible for the survival of the Hotel del Coronado, equally of the age of
the Belleview Biltmore, when grand was the theme of the late nineteenth century,
have made it a constant money maker.
Nothing
is cheap at the Hotel del Coronado, and the ambience cries to the rafters that
it is for reason. It is not only to
survive but to prevail.
With that mindset, it is likely that one hundred years from now, through constant refurbishment, dedicated maintenance, and reinvestment, it will sparkle with loving care in perennial rejuvenation with the same vitality and hospitality that is displayed today.
With that mindset, it is likely that one hundred years from now, through constant refurbishment, dedicated maintenance, and reinvestment, it will sparkle with loving care in perennial rejuvenation with the same vitality and hospitality that is displayed today.
Workers
in the parking lot, on the beach, in the restaurants, boutique shops, in the clothing
emporiums, in the kitchens and engine rooms, in housekeeping and security were not only polite but engaged.
There was an atmosphere of commerce, no doubt, but one indisputably customer friendly.
There was an atmosphere of commerce, no doubt, but one indisputably customer friendly.
Our
waitress, when we told her we were not a guest of the hotel, said she would
stamp our parking ticket so that we would be absolved of the $24 parking fee.
An attendant in the park convinced us that
the ticket had been electronically stamped as it looked untouched, while shop
workers indulged our questions without pressuring us to purchase their merchandise.
That
said everything about the Hotel del Coronado was an intoxicating
commercial.
It sits in an idyllic setting gracefully bordered by a white sandy beach and a crystal clear water bay as did the once majestic Belleview Biltmore.
It sits in an idyllic setting gracefully bordered by a white sandy beach and a crystal clear water bay as did the once majestic Belleview Biltmore.
That is however where the nature of things becomes blatantly different. A thousand voices explained the Belleview
Biltmore demise while a cadre of folks quietly promote the next iteration of Hotel del
Coronado.
INCIDENTAL OF THE SAN
DIEGO SOJOURN
San
Diego was invigorating, but also tiring as the pace is inhumanly frantic. There is obviously another side to this
region that is less frantic, less affluent, less commercially existential, but
we discovered it only by accident.
We
have a practice of leaving the maid $5 for each day that she serves us. I asked BB, “Do you think the
same maid will be here on Monday?” We
were then leaving Hemet for San Diego where we had been staying for three days.
“Ask
her,” she said simply, which I did, as we were leaving Monday morning and always
left our gratuity with a note.
As
I approached the maid, she told me in broken English Monday was her day off. Handing her our appreciation, she surprised me
with a big hug and a kiss on the cheek. That
said a lot about California societal stratification and brought me back to
reality.
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The
best advertisers of an area are friends who have previously been there. This also proved the case for San Diego. Aside from the Hotel del Coronado and the
spirited crossing of the Coronado Bridge, we did a bit of sightseeing and
shopping in the town.
We
then left Coronado for San Diego’s famous Balboa Park, where we had lunch at
the Prado Restaurant, and spent a few hours in the “Museum of Man.”
THE MUSEUM OF MAN
Balboa
Park is blanketed with museums and one could spent several days touring them
all. One of the interesting discoveries
in the “Museum of Man” was that our ancestoral tree starts with the lemur.
Located
beneath the ornate 200-foot California Tower, the San Diego “Museum of Man” is
the city’s only museum devoted exclusively to anthropology.
With
its Spanish colonial and mission style architecture, the landmark building was
originally constructed for the 1915–16 Panama-California
Exposition. Today, a key focus of the museum is to create and display
dynamic and educational anthropological exhibits about people and places throughout
the Americas and around the world.
The
museum traces its origins to the Panama-California
Exposition, which opened in 1915 on the occasion of the inauguration of the
Panama Canal.
The
central exhibit of the exposition, "The Story of Man through the
Ages," was assembled under the direction of noted archaeologist Dr. Edgar
Lee Hewett of the School of American Archaeology (later renamed the School of
American Research, and since 2007 the School for Advanced Research).
Hewett
organized expeditions to gather pre-Columbian pottery from the American
Southwest and to Guatemala for objects and reproductions of Maya civilization
monuments.
Numerous
other materials were gathered from expeditions sent by anthropologist Aleš
Hrdlička of the Smithsonian Institution, who gathered casts and specimens from
Africa, Siberia, Alaska and Southeast Asia. Osteological remains and trepanated
crania from Peruvian sites were also obtained.
As
the Exposition drew to a close, a group of citizens formed the San Diego Museum
Association to retain the collection and convert it into a permanent museum,
with Dr. Hewett as the first director.
Notable
additions to the museum’s collection after the Exposition included the Jessop
Weapons Collection and a rare collection of artifacts from the ancient Egyptian
city of Amarna, donated by Ellen Browning Scripps and the Egyptian Exploration
Society.
Between
1935 and 1936, the museum’s name briefly changed to the Palace of Science in order to correspond with other exhibit
buildings participating in the California-Pacific International Exposition.
During this exposition, the museum housed several special exhibitions from a
variety of sources, such as the Monte Alban exhibit, which featured many
artifacts on loan from the Mexican government.
The
name was changed to "Museum of Man" in 1942 to emphasize the museum's
concentration on anthropology. "San Diego" was added in 1978.
The
museum was converted into a hospital during World War II, and its exhibits and
collections were temporarily moved into storage. Following the war, the museum
began to focus its collections on the peoples of the Western Americas. The
museum’s collections grew substantially from the 1980s through the early 1990s,
and today contains nearly 2 million individual objects.
The
museum is housed in four original buildings from the 1915 Exposition. The main museum, including exhibits and gift
shop, is housed in the ornate California Building with its landmark tower, which
had been closed to the public for nearly 80 years. It reopened on January 1, 2015, in time for
the 2015 centennial of the Panama-California
Exposition.
The
tower contains a carillon and quarterly-hour chimes which can be heard all over
Balboa Park. The museum also occupies
three other original 1915 buildings.
On the opposite (south) side of the California Quadrangle, housed in what was originally the Fine Arts Building, is Evernham Hall, a banquet room which is also used for temporary exhibits. Immediately adjacent is the Saint Francis Chapel, a non-denominational Spanish-style chapel available for private events such as weddings.
The
museum's collections and permanent exhibits focus on the pre-Columbian history
of the western Americas, with materials drawn from Native American cultures of
the Southern California region, and Meso-American civilizations such as the
Maya.
The
museum also holds one of the most important collections of Ancient Egyptian
antiquities in the United States, which includes authentic mummies, burial
masks, figurines, and seven painted wooden coffins. The most extraordinary of
these is an extremely rare Ptolemaic child's coffin — only six others are known
to exist worldwide. Total holdings include more than 100,000 documented
ethnographic items, more than 30,000 books and journals, and 25,000
photographic images.
PARADISE POINT BAREFOOT
BAR & GRILL
On
our next to final night in San Diego, we took my nephew Danny Schall, his wife,
Michele, and his two college student children, Elyssa, 19, and Ryan, 21 to
Paradise Clove and the Barefoot Bar & Grill and true beachfront dining
The
Barefoot Bar & Grill is a local waterfront restaurant coveted for its
panoramic views of Mission Bay. This legendary San Diego beachfront restaurant
offers casual coastal California dining atmosphere where the Caribbean influenced
is apparent as well as creative American dishes.
We
took several pictures with a multicolored setting sun as backdrop to the
waterfront setting.
Resort
guests and San Diego locals alike can enjoy local craft beers, refreshing
cocktails, burgers, fresh seafood and salads in Barefoot Bar & Grill's
laid-back, waterfront setting aside a tropical waterfall, sea-life lagoon and
colorful marina. Much like Florida, attire is casual or beachwear. Barefoot Bar & Grill's fare is made from
farm fresh and organic foods grown in San Diego, and all dishes are created
keeping sustainability top of mind.
SEE’S
CANDIES CHOCOLATE SHOP
Our
last stop before motoring back to Los Angeles and a hotel for our early next day
flight back to Tampa, Florida was the Fashion
Valley Mall and See’s Candies
Chocolate Shop.
BB
was interested in picking up some gifts there for friends back at the Hillel
Academy of Tampa, where she is business manager.
The
See's Candies Chocolate Shop
in San Diego sells American-made candies and chocolates where you always get a
free sample and friendly customer service.
At
See’s Candies you can create your very own custom mixed box of chocolates and
candies. The shop is famous for boxed
chocolates, truffles, nuts and chews, lollipops, and sugar free candy.
San
Diego See's Candies Chocolate Shop has
been in existent for more than 90 years.
Warren Buffet bought the shop several years ago, as he did Dairy Queen Franchises
as well. He must have a sweet tooth or
perhaps such purchases sweetened his portfolio.
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